well I still use html and css, though with a small amount of javascript, (though you can happily navigate my site with JS off, it just looks a little prettier with it on).
I still rely on a text editor and the w3c html validating service (though some of my pages don;t validate at the moment!) in the main, though I have been known to use 1st page 2000 from http://www.eversoft.com/ which is a good html editor which you can make do as much of the work as you want, has a preview facility like all the mroe fully-featured html editors.
html is still the most accessbile language of the web, and with the use of style sheets you can really get some nifty design going.
