I remember when you got the first one. You were fairly proud of it. 

I actually have Windows 10 in that box...but only as a VM...

This was "back in the day" when M.2 'drives' were available, but the Win 7 OS couldn't be installed on one - however there was "a way" to do it...so I did.

These boxes are inherently so cool and 'solid' the fans are almost never on...and if the are you don't ever hear them anyway.  Even the PSU fan totally shuts down after boot, never to be heard from again.

You can see the section/thickness of the material used in that photo.

The little plate at the bottom of the MoBo 'box' is the offset for venting as well as clearance for the GPU.  I had to reinvent that with spacers so it's now out about twice as far [12mm] to clear the RTX3070 which isn't small.

One thing I have been improving is all six physical drives in the 'rack' are now SSDs ... a wee bit lighter...and cooler as well.  It's not really an extravagance to replace the drives...those old platters have quite a few uptime hours on them.... by 'few' I mean 3546.8 days [not hours]... and the M.2 drive claims it wants to retire in 2.5 years time ... 

Didn't Starkers have one too? Or maybe he wanted one. Speaking of him, whatever happened to him? I haven't seen him about in quite some time?

Looks like I asked that question already. Thanks for the reminder, Doc. 

I'm also upgrading my 'spike' protection as apparently an existing board doesn't last forever and the last time I suffered from one it was a $2500 mistake on my part ...

Quite probably.  I have mine directly on the desk by my left shoulder.... 2 reasons...it's away from [most] dust and it's pretty much too heavy to lift.

The empty case was about 50lb on its own....

Currently CPU is 35c

GPU is 40c

Each of the 6 physical drives 30c

Not sure what the PSU is...but the fan's asleep [as usual]....

The temperature sensor is usually not the hottest part of the chip.  It's probably in the core, and even parts of the core are hotter than others:

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/The-thermal-map-of-an-eight-core-CMP-similar-to-Intel-Haswell-architecture_fig2_333361319

The sensor readings you're getting are still useful, though, because a higher reading still means a hotter chip, and a lower one means a cooler one.  And with Intel, AMD, Nvidia et al in competition, there's not much incentive for them to calibrate the temperature sensors to report hotter temperatures.  No one wants to be perceived as running hot. 

Maybe I didn't properly explain:   different chips have different acceptable ranges of temperatures that they can operate in.  Or more specifically, they have different ranges of temperatures that they can operate in *according to their own temperature sensor*.   All chips basically use the same materials:   polysilicon, phosphorous, boron, aluminum, etc..   They all have the same specific heat, etc. for the same material.   It's not like Intel can legitimately say they have superior phosphorous atoms to AMD's phosphorous atoms (although I have no doubt they would try).   

But the temperature sensor is a design.  They rely on the same universal laws of physics, but the designs are specific to the company.  Usually it comprises of a voltage divider, reed sensor, etc. of some sort, and that analog voltage gets fed to an ADC (analog-to-digital converter).   The sensor causes something to output a different voltage depending on what temperature it is, and that voltage gets converted into a digital number.   The company can calibrate that any way they want.  They can convert 35 millivolts into a 0 or a 16376, and they can interpret that 16376 to be any temperature they want (although if they ever interpreted it to be a negative Kelvin temperature, I think it's safe to say that design is definitively wrong).   The most logical choice is to calibrate it to output the temperature of THAT temperature sensor itself.   Which probably runs a good 17C cooler than the cores are running at that very moment.   So you may be reading 30C on the console, but the part of the chip you actually care about is running at 47C.    But that's okay--you already have an acceptable range in your head that the computer can reliably run at, and that is based on the temperature you are reading.  Your upper limit may be 90C, when we actually validate the CPU to run at 110C in-house (110C is a very common upper limit for non-military grade).

Personally, I think an accurate chip temperature sensor needs to reflect the WORST-CASE temperature on the CHIP.  But that is bad marketing.  If your AMD computer reads 30C and their Intel computer reads 50C, everyone's going to buy the AMD computer.  Even though they are running at the same temperature.

Cool case. Now you just need the upcoming 5090 gpu to test its limits 😅

Update...

Level 10 No. 021 is 'mostly' up and running.

It came complete with a MoBo, CPU and fan and various cables and was pretty 'dirty' ... the previous owner was clearly a smoker.

Yes, in the good old days of smoking on planes the service crews could always find cabin leaks from the nicotine stains [true story].

The MoBo was a Gigabyte GA-Z170X Gaming 7 LGA1151 MotherBoard, and the CPU was Intel i7 7700 3.60Ghz @3.50Ghz LGA1151 CPU, so not too scruffy.

I hunted down 4x16G DDR4 for it and things were going great with the 'old' Antec TruePower 1000w PSU I added....

Until I got around to hooking up a drive...then things went decidedly 'south'.

There's apparently a DO-NOT-EVER-DO rule with Modular PSUs....

NEVER EVER MIX CABLES

You'd kinda assume standardized pin setups on Modulars...but no.

I plugged in a blank SSD and the Sata data cable promptly went into meltdown...smoke everywhere while I yanked out the power lead.

Long story short... the 1000w Antec promptly fucked itself and became a book-end, but not before taking out 4 of the 8 SATA sockets on the MoBo.

So, the PSU has gone to God...along with every "not used" Modular cable [and the burnt Sata].

Not all a disaster as I have a nice new PSU [with all matched cables] and a PCIe to Sata card to replace the 4 dead sockets.

Total expenditure looks like a bit less than a quarter of the original's price [the No.221].

If you ever get a second hand computer simply dump any power leads it might have before you add a new PSU.

Finally got it all as I wanted it...

Probably needs a little more panel beating, but as systems go it's up and running correctly.

6 Physical hard drives with the OS on a seventh - an M.2 - price on those has gone way down compared with my first one back in 2015 .... a tenth of the price.

So this is 021 of 500 ...

Quoting Jafo,

reply 23

Finally got it all as I wanted it...

Probably needs a little more panel beating, but as systems go it's up and running correctly.

6 Physical hard drives with the OS on a seventh - an M.2 - price on those has gone way down compared with my first one back in 2015 .... a tenth of the price.

So this is 021 of 500 ...

Congrats, indeed.  

Tiny suggestion...if you have one of those cylindrical pool floats (or the like) lying about, cutting an appropriate length and putting a slit in it can save your hand when you have to pick it up and move it.